In a previous blog post, different types of subfloors were discussed, and their importance, which is to provide support and structural stability to the flooring installed over it. Before a new floor can be installed, the subfloor must be tested and prepared for the new flooring. One of the first checks is a moisture reading. On a wood subfloor, an acceptable moisture reading is typically between 6% and 9%. If the moisture reading is above 9% (and you do not live in an area with high humidity), it is an indication that there is likely an underlying issue, such as a leak somewhere or problems with the crawl space. If the subfloor feels soft or squishy, it is another indication of a past or current issue that would require it to be replaced. The range for moisture readings for concrete varies greatly and is usually specified in the installation guidelines or specification sheet on the installed flooring. The moisture readings for a concrete subfloor vary significantly; most floors require a moisture barrier to be applied or installed before the new flooring maintains its warranty. If a moisture barrier is not installed or applied over a concrete subfloor, the new flooring will be prone to cupping, warping, mold, and other issues. The level of the subfloor is the next thing that will be assessed, as it needs to be completely level. If the subfloor is not completely level in all areas, then the new floor will be prone to cupping, squeaking, more easily broken locks (if it is a locking system), or lippage (specifically applies to tile when lips are formed instead of being completely flat). Some leveling issues are more noticeable than others, some can be easily noticed by walking on the subfloor and feeling it under shoes, it can be visible, or it can be found using a beam level too. There are multiple solutions to leveling issues, depending on the severity: such as grinding the concrete, installing additional screws on the wood subfloor, or applying self-leveling. Luckily, Athens can assess any issues with leveling and fix or repair most of them. While assessing the subfloor for moisture and levelness, concrete subfloors are assessed for cracks, and wood subfloors are assessed for squeaking. If there are any cracks or chips in the concrete, they would need to be repaired with a patch, self-leveling, or a concrete mix depending on the severity and location. If the wood subfloor is squeaky, this can be fixed by reinforcing it by adding more screws to secure it to the wood below it. After ripping up any previous flooring and before installing any new flooring, all of these possible issues need to be checked and resolved by professionals, such as A1 flooring.

On the surface, engineered wood flooring and solid wood flooring look the same. However, they both have pros and cons and some overlapping similarities that are important to be aware of before deciding which product to have installed in your house. Engineered wood is composed of layers of wood and typically has a plywood core, which makes this a little bit cheaper. This core enables it to have more moisture resistance than solid flooring, however, it can still delaminate if it is exposed to water for a long period. Typically, the top layer comes prefinished, which means that it has already been sanded and stained and does not require additional work before post-installation layer, also known as the veneer or surface layer. Solid wood is typically made from red oak, white oak, or pine. Solid wood is one solid piece of wood, with no layers, which makes it a little more expensive than engineered wood, and it can come prefinished or unfinished. In its unfinished state, it needs to be sanded and stained on site after it has been installed, which not all installers can do. Solid wood also has the capability of being refinished a few more times than engineered wood, which can only be refinished once or twice. This difference can also affect the floors’ lifespan, which is estimated to be 20-30 years for engineered wood floors and 30-100 years for solid wood floors. Both types of wood flooring do require time to acclimate to the temperature and humidity of the install site. If it does not get the necessary time to acclimate, it will expand and contract and cause the floor to warp and buckle. While both products can nailed down or glued down, only engineered wood can be installed as a floating floor as it typically has a locking system while solid wood typically has a tongue and grove instead. Both engineered and solid wood are excellent options for flooring installation and it's up to the consumer to decide which option they prefer or will fit best for their project.